1/9/2024 0 Comments Hs 129 b1 tank buster![]() Designed by Hermann Pohlmann, it first flew in 1935. Of it - will use the kit one which isn't all that different.The Junkers Ju 87 or Stuka (from Sturzkampfflugzeug, "dive bomber") was a German dive bomber and ground-attack aircraft. Had to add a helper piece of scrap to support the bottom wing to rear fuse fit because of the cut off kit flaps,Ĭut off the rudder to use the resin one =- alas it is too short and leaves a huge gap at the bottom Just the one update pic, got the fuselage and wings on tonight, nice fit there gaps non existent, ![]() Made a simple mount for the 37mm, the pod isn't correct but will do, good thing is the Mk103 cannon support ring fits perfect around the barrel and looks quite good fitted. Used MM burnt iron non buffing paint on the exhaust ring, (pic is a bit dark) will play around with the finish next time I work on it. Whatever part you add, each one presents another fit prob.Īs it is now, the pit fits in, and the fuse closes up with a lot of squeezing together - just. Resin seat/armor plate, lots of cutting,filing to get it to here.īroke the damned thing twice at the back, when fitted the fuse closes over it so it can't be seen Here's an update on this one - Pe parts for the pit are terrible, fit is almost impossible, Iv'e used a mix of Pe and resin parts to get to here. I think this bird will look pretty bitchin' with that 37 mm cannon poking out in front! One very annoying thing with the Verlinden set is the elevators are identical with the actuators the same way up so you have one on top and one one the bottom. I may just use the kit rudder posed to one side, it's easily scored to do this, the resin part isn't much better Thanks to a friend on another forum who supplied me with brilliant ref pics and diagrams I fixed the engine mounting to look respectable, proggry so far cut flaps elevators and radio box and dry fitted the parts. Well at least all the pushrods and curved exhaust piping is done P 5 will not fit inside P 18 attached to P 11 nor will it reach P 11 from the inside. You can see where the 3 red dots are, where they join to the cylinders corectly, If you do this, P5 to P 11, when you go to attach the exhaust ring - the exhaust tubes that fit onto the cylinders do not So we follow the instructions on the engine - part 11 to 14 - part 5 to part 11 - good thing I used blu tack for part 5 ! With these in place, glued the back plate on, this allows me to remove and replace the prop at any time, the poly cap holds the prop in and spins very free. To keep the poly cap from moving away from the prop shaft i cut a piece of round scrap spue and fitted it into the larger hole behind the poly cap. You can see the two different hole diameters I devised a way to make this rotate, first glued the engine front on for a drilling guide, drilled through so the prop shaft fitted in, then drilled back the opposite side with a larger drill bit to accommodate Hasegawa's poly cap. Using Master Model barrels, and I have started the engine, the Verlinden set also has all control surfaces and flaps so will be cutting the kit ones off and posing the resin replacements.Īs you know I hate non rotating props with a passion - the resin set gives a solid engine without prop shaft holes. I need to check what makings this aircraft had but like the blue spinner spirals and blue letters so may go with those. I'm doing a variant that was fitted with the 37mm cannon While doing my F4 J which was annoying me I pulled this one out and committed to it
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